Proliant MicroServer G8 – Red Alert

proliant

Through this article I will share with you the bad experience I had with my Proliant Microserver G8 few days ago, concerning the blinking red-light problem on the front panel. If you are here, it is probably because you are encountering the same problem and I will reassure you: your server is probably not dead ūüėČ .

The symptoms are the following:

  • Instability of the server (inopportune reboot)
  • Sometime rebooting before the POST procedure to finish
  • Blue light on the front panel switch to a blinking red-light

Check your ILO log

Very simple step but it was not my first thought though. When you check the manual, Fast-flashing red (4 Hz/cycles per sec) = Power fault. Your first reflex was probably to remove all your hard disk, hoping it’s just a power supply problem. I was looking on many forums on the Internet, and some people have solved this issue… by changing their motherboard.

You have better chance to check the ILO log in fact. If you forget your ILO password, you can check this post. My log was specifying that a thermal power shutdown occurred. After disabling this protection feature in the Microserver’s BIOS, I noticed that it doesn’t solve the problem.

In ILO, I also noticed the thermal sensor n¬į1 (the one for the ambient temp.) was indicating 83¬įC or -1¬įC sometime.

temp_ilo_2Observing that the bottle of water on my desktop was not icing or boiling, I removed the faulty sensor from the case.

case_sensor

After that everything went back on rails. Fun fact about the status of the sensor I just removed, ILO still indicates that the status is OK. Also, if you wish to replace this sensor, it will cost you 35$! But don’t be fooled, the sensor is just a KN3904 NPN transistor that will cost you few cents.

 

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File storage strategy

storage

Hi there!

These last few days, I’m emerging from the soil my army of hard disk that contains all my data for the past 10 years. I had been totally discouraged by the amount of information, and huge quantity of duplicated files due to multiple backups.

As I’m storing a lot of files in a year, I searched a good way to organize, sort and backup all my documents, videos and music in a logical way. The purpose is also to reduce risks of losing files (after a hard-disk failure for example). If you are or were in the same case, this little guide is for you! Throughout this bunch of lines, I will show you how to keep the control on your files and your workspace, and how to jungle with your personal and professional data.

1. Know your data

It seems to be obvious to many of you. Sometimes, we don’t realize the quantity and the variety of files we have. The first step is quite simple : take a paper and a pen, and plug your hard-disk one by one. Note down their model, the size of the hard drive, free space, and what they contain. For example :

Seagate 500Gb (IDE): 154Gb used

-Backup from 12th. February 2012
-Some music given by Alex
-Photos
-First C programming project

Western Digital (SATA):
-Blah blah…

Often, you will not have enough space on one drive to put all your file, even after the final step of classification. It is for this reason it is interesting to know the size of all your hard disk.

2. Categorize

As I said in the introduction, your PC could be shared between your professional life and your geek life (Oh! I beg your pardon, I should say ‘private life’ ūüėČ ). After reading many advises on forums and article on the web, I decided to put each folders/files in a specific root category:

(more…)

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Black&Decker_Drill

Hi there!

It seems that the previous trick I have posted did not totally rose my Black&Decker batteries from the dead. The two 14.4V Fire Storm batteries seem to be bored by electroshock, and they are going out of energy in less than one day without use. Anyway, I decided to find a way to plug the drill on the  AC 220V, that would allow me to drill 24/7 :).

This time I will expose you an inexpensive hack to convert your cordless drill with batteries into a corded one, using an AC to DC adapter.

The first step is to find a good AC/DC power bloc with the same voltage of your battery. It should be enough powerful in order to deliver sufficient current to the electrical motor of the tool. I needed to be very patient, as a 14.4V AC/DC is quite hard to find. You best chance is to go in a hacker space – it is where I get one. It is a Labtec adapter, that comes from an old all-in-one printer. It delivers 1A, and I bet it was sufficient for the drill…

Power adapter

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Black & Decker battery charger fix

Black & decker with a kid

Behind this long title, I will simply tell you how to fix charging problem with Black & Decker cordless drills.

In my home toolbox, there was a broken cordless drill that had some battery issues. The engine-tool had not been used for a while, so the two 14.4V batteries were totally discharged, in a state called “deep-discharge”.

The problem was I can’t charge these batteries anymore: when I plugged the batteries onto the charger, the red led that indicates the battery isn’t charged yet light up for 1 second, and then, the green one light up…

So my first thought was something is going wrong inside the charger. I noticed several time (when all was working) that the battery charger was really hot.

The first defy was to open the shell of it. It was really painful, because Black&Decker uses some of these hex screws called “security torx”, with a cylinder in the middle:

The second problem with these screws are that two of them are in a tiny hole, and most of screwdrivers haven’t the right diameter to enter in.
The solution is a bit “Mac-Gyver approved”: I took another drill with a ¬†metal bit, and tried to break the head of the screw. Finally, I was able to open the box: the heat was so high that the plastic around the screw melted.

A first look on the circuit-board, and I found the issue: the charging resistor has been un-solded because it was to warm during previous charging. It is the big grey one, annoted “R2” on the board.

After fixing it, I simply closed back the charger and tried to charge my two batteries. Unfortunately, I had the same problem: red led for 1 sec, then green led.

After some research, I understood that the two batteries was to low to be able to charge (checked with the multimeter). For this drill-charger, the voltage of the battery must be higher than 7V. Mine was under 1V, so it needed to be boosted before charging…

On Catmacey’s blog, I found a similar charger story about a Black&Decker drill, followed by a little guide that explains¬†how to revive NiCd batteries with a throwable camera with flash, and a Youtube video from dial2fast.
Moreover, this is another complete how-to using a throw-able camera trick.

It allowed me to go over the 7V needed by the charger. “In fine”, the red led charging lighted up until the complete charge of the battery. My drill was working back then!

Ressources:

http://www.contractortalk.com/f40/nicad-battery-fix-repair-guide-36047/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5sO1OdEwEQ

http://tech-tut.com/?p=721

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1e8hHLyXAyQ

http://catmacey.wordpress.com/2009/03/28/reviving-a-dead-nicad-battery/

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bring-Dead-Ni-Cad-Batteries-Back-To-Life/

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Linux, par o√Ļ commencer

Linux kernel map

D√©barquer dans le monde de GNU/Linux, c’est un peu comme passer son permis. Le code, les heures de conduites, choses aussi lourdes que d’assimiler un bout de programme¬†obscurcit de l’IOCCC (International Obfuscated C Code Contest). Examen pass√©, auto-√©cole remerci√©e, et cette sensation lorsqu’on prend les commandes de la grosse merco du paternel. Voil√†, vous l’aurez compris, passer le cap Linux, c’est reprendre le contr√īle de son PC et augmenter drastiquement sa productivit√©, ainsi que sa compr√©hension de l’informatique en g√©n√©ral.

Le probl√®me, c’est que Linux a √©t√© tr√®s longtemps l’affaire de barbus comme¬†Richard Stallman, 2√®me personne la plus influente du monde informatique, devant NyanCat et WTF Guy. Alors forc√©ment, par o√Ļ commencer?

Le but de ce post n’est pas de faire un eni√®me tutorial sur l’utilisation de cet syst√®me d’exploitation, mais plut√īt un “guide des guides” existants. De toute fa√ßon, la meilleur solution c’est de pratiquer, n’est ce pas?

La théorie

Linux, kézako? http://www.getgnulinux.org/fr/linux/

Pas vraiment un syst√®me d’exploitation √† proprement parler, Linux c’est avant tout un noyau!

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nod32

Yesterday night, I solved a problem that made me crazy for 6 months. When I booted up my computer, I needed to wait between 2 or 3 minutes to get a working connection to the internet.

During this dead time, the wired network adapter indicated that it was connected (so the cable was plugged in), but zero packets were received or sent over this interface.¬†I tried a lot of manipulation to find from where the issue came from : uninstalling my anti-virus (ESET Smart Security),¬†deactivating¬†a lot of services, reading Windows’ logs, tried the Windows Performance Analysis Tool (WPT), network driver updating, and finally formatting my computer…

It’s quite frustrating to format your computer when you don’t need to, because since I purchased a SSD, my laptop didn’t get slow anymore.

But yesterday, I had some issues with my anti-virus (that is a firewall as well) ESET Smart Security, and I needed to uninstall it messily with the Eset uninstaller. During the process of uninstalling, I noticed a message I never saw before:

eset_uninstaller

“Warning! Win 7 detected: After running this tool on Win 7, you may observe network outages each time you start OS. NIC drivers re-installation should fix it. If you want to re-install NIC drivers automatically, please use switch “/reinst”. Please be aware that NIC drivers re-installation causes loss of static IP settings or WIFI settings.”

Are you kidding me? ūüėĮ

So I gently uninstalled the driver of all my network interfaces. Click on Uninstall in the driver section (it’s important!) of your device (right-click on “Computer“, then “Manage“. Click on “Device Manager” on the left, then right-click on the network-adapter you want to remove. Go to “Driver” tab, then click on “Uninstall“).

And after all, no more delay, no more slow startup on my network interfaces! Thanks ESET!

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tutogtk

This year at school, we have a C language project to do in team, and the subject was totally free. So we had the idea to make an application that tracks Solex in real time for the Rock’n Solex fest, in order to allow people to see the position, lap-times and speed of the runners at any instant.

As we are obligated to do it in C language, we chose to use GTK+ library for our client interface, that will show a map with one marker for each runner. After some research on the web, we found osm-gps-map, a sort of widget for GTK+ that allows fetching maps from OpenStreetMap project.

The purpose of this post is to explain how to properly install and use GTK+ under Windows, and how to make the C example file provided by the official website working. The IDE that will be used is Code::Blocks.

The explaination below might be very complex for beginners. You have to follow rigorously the steps I give. Normally, this example respect the universality of paths for the project, that allows export easly your sources on a SVN to work in team for example.

Requirement:

  • Code::Blocks 12.11 IDE installed on the computer.
  • GTK+ 3.6.1 for Windows
  • osm-gps-map sources
  • libsoup-2.26 library
  • a LOT of patience

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How to: change Z-Order of a window

Currently working with the Windows API to manipulate window’ handles, I needed to put a window just behind the focused (topmost) window. The programming language is C#.

First of all, you’ll need to get the window handle, an unique number that identify each window that is loaded in memory. To know this number, you have two choices:

  1. Finding the window handle using EnumWindows + GetWindowModuleFileName (See this thread: Codeguru Forum РGet window handle from process)
  2. Use a software like Spy++, that is provided by VisualStudio 2010 (See the official help page of Microsoft: MSDN Help Page about Spy++ )

Once you have the handle of the window you want to put just behind the window that has actually the focus, you can use the SetWindowPos function. According pinvoke.net, you can declare this function like this:


[DllImport("user32.dll", SetLastError = true)]
 [return: MarshalAs(UnmanagedType.Bool)]
 private static extern bool SetWindowPos(IntPtr hWnd,
 int hWndInsertAfter, int x, int y, int cx, int cy, int uFlags);

Then, simply pass the window handle as first parameter to SetWindowPos. You will need to call this function twice, and you have to specify action to be applied to this handle:

int hWndInsertAfter

If you want to put this window on the top of all window (including the currently focused (topmost) window), put this parameter to HWND_TOPMOST (corresponding value: -2). If you want to bring the window handle just behind the focused window, you will need to recall SetWindowPos with HWND_BOTTOM parameter.

 int x, int y, int cx, int cy 

These values allows you to resize the window (cx, cy) or the position on the screen (x, y). For my example, I put all of them to the 0 value.

int uFlags

This last parameter is very important. It allows to specify some nice actions:

  • SWP_NOACTIVATE (0x0010) : The window handle provided in parameter will not be focused (placed on topmost position). So you have to set it with HWND_TOPMOST, and you will be able to get the second position of all windows on the screen.
  • SWP_NOSIZE (0x0001) : The window will not be resized. It allows ignoring cx and cy parameters.
  • SWP_NOMOVE (0x0002) : The window will not be moved. It allows ignoring x and y parameters.

This is the final function:


public static bool BringBehindTopMostWindow(IntPtr hWnd)
 {
 bool ret;

//First, we set the window as Topmost window in the Z order, but without the focus
 ret = SetWindowPos(hWnd, HWND_TOPMOST, 0, 0, 0, 0, SWP_NOMOVE | SWP_NOSIZE | SWP_NOACTIVATE);

//Set the window as non-topmost window, to be sure it will not be always on top
 ret = SetWindowPos(hWnd, HWND_BOTTOM, 0, 0, 0, 0, SWP_NOMOVE | SWP_NOSIZE | SWP_NOACTIVATE);

return ret;
 }

You can download a working example here:  SetSecPosition.zip (634 downloads) .

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Wifi, addresses utiles

Si vous travaillez de temps en temps avec les antennes (que ce soit en¬†√©lectronique¬†ou pour vos calculs¬†th√©oriques)¬†, j’ai d√©couvert un site regroupant plusieurs calculateurs en rapport avec les puissances, les pertes et la sensibilit√© des antennes.¬†√áa¬†ce passe sur ce site:

http://www.swisswireless.org/wlan_calc_fr.html

En bonus, je vous laisse √©galement une petite s√©rie de tutoriaux tr√®s bien expliqu√©s en anglais (avec un petit accent indien) qui vous guideront lors de vos test de s√©curit√© sur votre r√©seau wifi. (crack WEP, exploits et techniques d’attaques).

http://www.securitytube.net/groups?operation=view&groupId=9

Bon visionnage!

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Afficher les images des archives

Un petit truc tout b√™te aujourd’hui. Je me suis rendu compte que les vid√©os Youtube et les images des articles pr√©sent dans les archives de cat√©gories n’√©taient pas affich√©es.

Je vais donc vous montrer comment très simplement passer de ça:

 

 

 

 

 

à ça:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Alors c’est tr√®s simple:

1. Connectez vous sur votre FTP, et naviguez jusque dans le dossier de votre thème (généralement situé dans wp-content/themes/)

2.¬†Cherchez un fichier archive.php ouvrez le, et recherchez le terme “the_excerpt()

3.¬†Modifiez le en “the_content()

Voila le tour est joué! Cette astuce fonctionne pour tout type de contenu, y compris les vidéos Youtube!

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