Through this article I will share with you the bad experience I had with my Proliant Microserver G8 few days ago, concerning the blinking red-light problem on the front panel. If you are here, it is probably because you are encountering the same problem and I will reassure you: your server is probably not dead 😉 .

The symptoms are the following:

  • Instability of the server (inopportune reboot)
  • Sometime rebooting before the POST procedure to finish
  • Blue light on the front panel switch to a blinking red-light

Check your ILO log

Very simple step but it was not my first thought though. When you check the manual, Fast-flashing red (4 Hz/cycles per sec) = Power fault. Your first reflex was probably to remove all your hard disk, hoping it’s just a power supply problem. I was looking on many forums on the Internet, and some people have solved this issue… by changing their motherboard.

You have better chance to check the ILO log in fact. If you forget your ILO password, you can check this post. My log was specifying that a thermal power shutdown occurred. After disabling this protection feature in the Microserver’s BIOS, I noticed that it doesn’t solve the problem.

In ILO, I also noticed the thermal sensor n°1 (the one for the ambient temp.) was indicating 83°C or -1°C sometime.

temp_ilo_2Observing that the bottle of water on my desktop was not icing or boiling, I removed the faulty sensor from the case.


After that everything went back on rails. Fun fact about the status of the sensor I just removed, ILO still indicates that the status is OK. Also, if you wish to replace this sensor, it will cost you 35$! But don’t be fooled, the sensor is just a KN3904 NPN transistor that will cost you few cents.




Hi there!

These last few days, I’m emerging from the soil my army of hard disk that contains all my data for the past 10 years. I had been totally discouraged by the amount of information, and huge quantity of duplicated files due to multiple backups.

As I’m storing a lot of files in a year, I searched a good way to organize, sort and backup all my documents, videos and music in a logical way. The purpose is also to reduce risks of losing files (after a hard-disk failure for example). If you are or were in the same case, this little guide is for you! Throughout this bunch of lines, I will show you how to keep the control on your files and your workspace, and how to jungle with your personal and professional data.

1. Know your data

It seems to be obvious to many of you. Sometimes, we don’t realize the quantity and the variety of files we have. The first step is quite simple : take a paper and a pen, and plug your hard-disk one by one. Note down their model, the size of the hard drive, free space, and what they contain. For example :

Seagate 500Gb (IDE): 154Gb used

-Backup from 12th. February 2012
-Some music given by Alex
-First C programming project

Western Digital (SATA):
-Blah blah…

Often, you will not have enough space on one drive to put all your file, even after the final step of classification. It is for this reason it is interesting to know the size of all your hard disk.

2. Categorize

As I said in the introduction, your PC could be shared between your professional life and your geek life (Oh! I beg your pardon, I should say ‘private life’ 😉 ). After reading many advises on forums and article on the web, I decided to put each folders/files in a specific root category:




Hi there!

It seems that the previous trick I have posted did not totally rose my Black&Decker batteries from the dead. The two 14.4V Fire Storm batteries seem to be bored by electroshock, and they are going out of energy in less than one day without use. Anyway, I decided to find a way to plug the drill on the  AC 220V, that would allow me to drill 24/7 :).

This time I will expose you an inexpensive hack to convert your cordless drill with batteries into a corded one, using an AC to DC adapter.

The first step is to find a good AC/DC power bloc with the same voltage of your battery. It should be enough powerful in order to deliver sufficient current to the electrical motor of the tool. I needed to be very patient, as a 14.4V AC/DC is quite hard to find. You best chance is to go in a hacker space – it is where I get one. It is a Labtec adapter, that comes from an old all-in-one printer. It delivers 1A, and I bet it was sufficient for the drill…

Power adapter



Black & decker with a kid

Behind this long title, I will simply tell you how to fix charging problem with Black & Decker cordless drills.

In my home toolbox, there was a broken cordless drill that had some battery issues. The engine-tool had not been used for a while, so the two 14.4V batteries were totally discharged, in a state called “deep-discharge”.

The problem was I can’t charge these batteries anymore: when I plugged the batteries onto the charger, the red led that indicates the battery isn’t charged yet light up for 1 second, and then, the green one light up…

So my first thought was something is going wrong inside the charger. I noticed several time (when all was working) that the battery charger was really hot.

The first defy was to open the shell of it. It was really painful, because Black&Decker uses some of these hex screws called “security torx”, with a cylinder in the middle:

The second problem with these screws are that two of them are in a tiny hole, and most of screwdrivers haven’t the right diameter to enter in.
The solution is a bit “Mac-Gyver approved”: I took another drill with a  metal bit, and tried to break the head of the screw. Finally, I was able to open the box: the heat was so high that the plastic around the screw melted.

A first look on the circuit-board, and I found the issue: the charging resistor has been un-solded because it was to warm during previous charging. It is the big grey one, annoted “R2” on the board.

After fixing it, I simply closed back the charger and tried to charge my two batteries. Unfortunately, I had the same problem: red led for 1 sec, then green led.

After some research, I understood that the two batteries was to low to be able to charge (checked with the multimeter). For this drill-charger, the voltage of the battery must be higher than 7V. Mine was under 1V, so it needed to be boosted before charging…

On Catmacey’s blog, I found a similar charger story about a Black&Decker drill, followed by a little guide that explains how to revive NiCd batteries with a throwable camera with flash, and a Youtube video from dial2fast.
Moreover, this is another complete how-to using a throw-able camera trick.

It allowed me to go over the 7V needed by the charger. “In fine”, the red led charging lighted up until the complete charge of the battery. My drill was working back then!



youtuber header

Maybe you have already noticed it. For a long while, I was asking myself what is the role of this tiny yellow bar in the Youtube video player.

youtube yellow bar

After some research on the web, I found that it is for indicates the user when a popup will arrive on the screen (in Youtube term, popup means ‘advertissement’ 🙂 )

Youtube advertissement

Voila! It was the useless post of the day. If you really want some Youtube’s secrets and tricks, check this link!


Linux kernel map

Débarquer dans le monde de GNU/Linux, c’est un peu comme passer son permis. Le code, les heures de conduites, choses aussi lourdes que d’assimiler un bout de programme obscurcit de l’IOCCC (International Obfuscated C Code Contest). Examen passé, auto-école remerciée, et cette sensation lorsqu’on prend les commandes de la grosse merco du paternel. Voilà, vous l’aurez compris, passer le cap Linux, c’est reprendre le contrôle de son PC et augmenter drastiquement sa productivité, ainsi que sa compréhension de l’informatique en général.

Le problème, c’est que Linux a été très longtemps l’affaire de barbus comme Richard Stallman, 2ème personne la plus influente du monde informatique, devant NyanCat et WTF Guy. Alors forcément, par où commencer?

Le but de ce post n’est pas de faire un enième tutorial sur l’utilisation de cet système d’exploitation, mais plutôt un “guide des guides” existants. De toute façon, la meilleur solution c’est de pratiquer, n’est ce pas?

La théorie

Linux, kézako?

Pas vraiment un système d’exploitation à proprement parler, Linux c’est avant tout un noyau!




Hi everybody!

I would like to apologize concerning the unavailability of during approximately 1 week. Indeed, a bad manipulation in my CPanel deactivated the DNS redirection!

I hope you will enjoy the site as it is back.

Best regards


Logo de

Finalement, on revient toujours à ses premiers amours!, j’avais quitté il y a de la 2 ans pour rejoindre les rangs de 1and1, l’un des plus gros hébergeurs de site web français. Alpagué par une offre pomotionnelle, je me laissais tenter par un véritable nom de domaine, un vrai de vrai : 1and1, j’ai été un peu déçu. Déjà, les temps d’accès étaient relativement longs, avec une moyenne de 14 secondes pour la page d’accueil. Et le prix a sacrément augmenté depuis, je suis passé de 15€/an à 35€/an. Je me permet donc de faire de la pub à mon nouvel hébergeur,, qui propose une prestation de 15€/an vraiment complète (voir offres). Le support a été un peu long sur certains tickets, mais il faut dire que c’était le week-end 😉 .

Aujourd’hui, j’ai environ 1100 visites par mois, principalement des consultations d’anglophones (40%) cherchant du bonheur du coté de The Owl VMG Reader. Sinon, j’ai quelques francophone (28%) qui s’égarent principalement sur les articles concernant les torrents, et les playlists. En tout, j’ai été honoré par la visite de 20000 personnes en 2 ans, et d’une centaine de commentaires et de mails.

Pour ne rien vous cacher, j’ai avant tout créé ce site pour partager du contenu quasi-exclusif. En tout cas, je tiens à garder ce site 100% sans pub pour le confort de navigation.

Pour le futur : je compte publier un gros projet d’ici fin septembre (KeybOwl), une partie du site sera alors redesigné, voir un sous-domaine qui sera créé pour l’occasion. Bwef. Bonne visite, et bonne semaine.



Yesterday night, I solved a problem that made me crazy for 6 months. When I booted up my computer, I needed to wait between 2 or 3 minutes to get a working connection to the internet.

During this dead time, the wired network adapter indicated that it was connected (so the cable was plugged in), but zero packets were received or sent over this interface. I tried a lot of manipulation to find from where the issue came from : uninstalling my anti-virus (ESET Smart Security), deactivating a lot of services, reading Windows’ logs, tried the Windows Performance Analysis Tool (WPT), network driver updating, and finally formatting my computer…

It’s quite frustrating to format your computer when you don’t need to, because since I purchased a SSD, my laptop didn’t get slow anymore.

But yesterday, I had some issues with my anti-virus (that is a firewall as well) ESET Smart Security, and I needed to uninstall it messily with the Eset uninstaller. During the process of uninstalling, I noticed a message I never saw before:


“Warning! Win 7 detected: After running this tool on Win 7, you may observe network outages each time you start OS. NIC drivers re-installation should fix it. If you want to re-install NIC drivers automatically, please use switch “/reinst”. Please be aware that NIC drivers re-installation causes loss of static IP settings or WIFI settings.”

Are you kidding me? 😯

So I gently uninstalled the driver of all my network interfaces. Click on Uninstall in the driver section (it’s important!) of your device (right-click on “Computer“, then “Manage“. Click on “Device Manager” on the left, then right-click on the network-adapter you want to remove. Go to “Driver” tab, then click on “Uninstall“).

And after all, no more delay, no more slow startup on my network interfaces! Thanks ESET!



This year at school, we have a C language project to do in team, and the subject was totally free. So we had the idea to make an application that tracks Solex in real time for the Rock’n Solex fest, in order to allow people to see the position, lap-times and speed of the runners at any instant.

As we are obligated to do it in C language, we chose to use GTK+ library for our client interface, that will show a map with one marker for each runner. After some research on the web, we found osm-gps-map, a sort of widget for GTK+ that allows fetching maps from OpenStreetMap project.

The purpose of this post is to explain how to properly install and use GTK+ under Windows, and how to make the C example file provided by the official website working. The IDE that will be used is Code::Blocks.

The explaination below might be very complex for beginners. You have to follow rigorously the steps I give. Normally, this example respect the universality of paths for the project, that allows export easly your sources on a SVN to work in team for example.


  • Code::Blocks 12.11 IDE installed on the computer.
  • GTK+ 3.6.1 for Windows
  • osm-gps-map sources
  • libsoup-2.26 library
  • a LOT of patience